Monday, July 10, 2006

Review: Mill River Inn

My meal there predates the blog, slightly. For some reason, I never got around to reviewing this place earlier. So, just a few thoughts.

Don't go on a Friday! The dining room is tiny. We had reservations for 8:00. I think we finally got seated around 9:30. And by then they were out of the lobster appetizer my wife wanted. She had to settle on a nondescript salad. My appetizer was two fairly large slices of foie gras--really a huge portion. But it was cold. And, no, it wasn't supposed to be.

My entree was duck--breast and confit of the leg/thigh. The breast was good, but it was served over mashed potatoes. Who cares? The confit was marvelous, however. Really, meltingly tender. The best I've ever had.

My wife's entree was a steak, topped with a dollop of goat cheese. She loved the goat cheese but wasn't too impressed with the steak. (I rarely order steak, personally, because I can always do it better at home.)

For some reason I forget what our desserts were. They were obviously not memorable.

For several years in a row The Mill River Inn was #1 in Zagat's for food. I don't know who's doing the voting, but, folks, it ain't the best food on Long Island. The food is good, solid. But it doesn't have the flare and complexity of flavors as the better LI restaurants.

I will say that one of the restaurant's attractive qualities (to me) is no valet service. The worst offender is Mirabelle, where the valet walks 5 feet to your car. And you're supposed to tip the guy? Give me a break.

3 1/2 out of 5 stars.


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