So-so article about Emeril

in this month's Gourmet, which apparently isn't available online. The article promises to explain why chefs don't like him, but only maybe a tenth of the article is devoted to the subject. We do learn that, in his early days at Commander's Palace, Emeril was a Gordan Ramsay-ish grump.

We also get to be reminded that Anthony Bourdain doesn't like him--as if anyone cares. Why Anthony Bourdain keeps getting referenced in articles is beyond me. He's not famous for his cooking--like, say, every other celebrity chef--but for Kitchen Confidential. If I want to know what chefs think of Emeril's food, I 'd like to hear it from someone like Thomas Keller, who, in the article, praised Emeril.